Hard problems in the men’s qualifying round. Out of 112 climbers only 58 managed to get a top. The big surprise is that Rustam Gelmanov is in 21st place, out of semifinals.
Tomorrow, the Utah Olympic Park hosts the second edition of the Psico Bloc Masters, the world biggest Deep Water Soloing (aka psicobloc) competition. The impressive (15 meters tall!) wall will be climbed by stars like Daniel Woods, Chris Sharma, Sasha Digiulian or Ashima Shiraishi.
American climber Angie Payne has done the first female ascent of Freaks of the Industry, a V13 | 8B located in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. This is the second V13 ascent for Payne, who in 2010 became the first women ever to climb a V13 problem by sending The Automator, also in RMNP.
During the World Cup in Vail we got the chance to talk with American route setter Chris Danielson. The topics ranged from the challenges of setting in a world-class competition to the evolution of competitive bouldering and setting styles. An interesting peak into one of the least known aspects of climbing competitions.
Last weekend in Puente la Reina, Spain, Chris Sharma proved once again that he’s the master of psicobloc, a.k.a. deep water soloing. The American won the Red Bull Creepers competition against some of the most talented climbers out there, including big stars like Nalle Hukkataival and Rustam Gelmanov.
Right after the award ceremony in Laval we spoke with Udo Neumann. The German coach shared his thoughts on why Jan Hojer and Akiyo Noguchi are the 2014 Overall Champions and talked about route setting, the performance of the German Team and the challenges the IFSC faces.