Tamás Zupán – The path to V15

A couple of weeks ago Tamás Zupán repeated one of the hardest boulder problems in Switzerland: In Search of Time Lost. First climbed by Daniel Woods back in 2008 and graded 8C | V15, it’s one of the hardest and most spectacular roof problems on the planet.

Born in Budapest in 1987, Tamás Zupán has been climbing since 2004. He works in his own climbing gym, which allows him to keep in touch with the sport and work hard on his climbing goals.

In 2009 he decided to try to climb a harder grade each year. “It’s good motivation but a little frustrating“. After his ascents of Anam Cara and Memento, both 8B+ | V14, climbing a grade harder was going to be a true challenge.

In Search of Time Lost  (ISOTL from now on) looked like a fitting candidate. “I love crimps and roofs and the style of Daniel Woods [...] I climbed some problems in Darknes Roof before and I always liked that line“.

ISOTL is a sit start to Remembrance of Things Past 8B+ | V14. It’s a long problem, about 20 crimpy moves on a roof. “The endurance was the biggest challenge. I could do every move separately but I always got to the crux move tired“.

Despite having done only a couple of 8B+ Tamás was confident on his chances, it was “the project of my life” and he was determined to work on it as long and as hard as it would take.

Daniel Woods on ISOTL:

Back in Budapest, Tamás developed a special training regime, tailored to the particular style of the problem. “I did a lot of planking and trained 5 times a week including campus board, system board and climbing on a 60 degree wall”.

He followed this plan for one and a half years and, just in case some extra pulling strength was needed, he did 50 1 arm pull ups with each arm every single day. Some days with 4,5 kilos to add resistance.

Two years after the first time he tried the problem, having spent about 8 sessions working on it, Tamás managed to link the entire sequence and tick his hardest project to date.

Two clips of Tamás climbing. First sending an 8A and then working on Remembrance of Things Past, a problem in the Darkness Roof that is part of ISOTL:

Sending an 8C after climbing for just 10 years is quite impressive, but his ambitions don’t stop here. Problems like Bügeleisen and Off The Wagon are already on his list.

But all that will have to wait, right now he’s focusing on his wedding (and the honey moon doesn’t include any climbing).

All the pictures on this post courtesy of Tamás Zupán.

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