2013 Chongqing Bouldering World Cup Finals

The first IFSC Bouldering World Cup of the season is over. Sharafutdinov and Stöhr took the gold with very solid performances. Schubert – Oda and Hori – Puccio completed the podium. Let’s do a quick review of the comp.

Stöhr celebrating after getting the bonus on W4

Anna Stöhr celebrating after getting the bonus on W4

The semis
On the female side, after the qualifiers, 11 climbers were tied with 5 flashes. The route setters showed that they know their craft and did a good job dividing the field. Only Stöhr could solve all four problems. Along with her, Noguchi, Puccio, Oda, Coxsey and Retschy made finals.

It’s the first time in finals for Monika Retschy (GER). Last year she ended up in the dreaded 7th place (were her teammate Wurm finished this time) but today she managed to be on the top 6. Congratulations!

In the male category 7 climbers solved all the problems. Valeriy Kryukov (UKR) missed the finals by taking 1 try too many on the third problem. Thomas Caleyron did impressively well (4t5 4b5) and went to finals in first place. Hori, Glairon Mondet, Gelmanov, Schubert and Sharafutdinov were the other 5 to complete four problems and make finals.

The finals
Anna Stöhr didn’t give any chances to the other competitors. She came out last in every problem and simply did as well or better than the rest. The first two problems decided the final, the last two were too hard. The third problem was too easy up to the bonus (everyone got there in their first try) but no one could do the last move.

The last problem was my favorite, a tricky slab traverse (nothing but volumes and a couple of footholds) which led into a dihedral were you had to reach back to get the bonus. Only Stöhr managed to get out of that corner, it took her three long tries and she celebrated getting the bonus as if it was the deciding move. It wasn’t. At that point she already had the gold, she could have sat on the mat for the entire 4 minutes and she would have won anyway. But that’s not her thing, her thing is topping hard problems and that’s what she did. She got the gold with authority and showed that she is, once again, the favorite for the overall title.

Oda on W4

Momoka Oda about to reach for the bonus on women’s #4.

Unlike Stöhr, Sharafutdinov had to wait and see what Schubert and Hori could do on the fourth problem before claiming his gold medal. They couldn’t solve it. Only Sharafutdinov and Caleyron managed to hold the swing after a powerful dynamic move to get out of the starting roof section (what a big roof that wall had!).

Schubert, Hori and Gelmanov flashed the first two problems (the three looked incredibly strong) and everyone solved the third one. It all came down to the last problem (good job, route setters!). Dmitrii had to solve it and wait. And so he did. None of the contenders for the gold could get out of the roof. Sharafutdinov adds another title to his impressive resume, congratulations!

Full results: MalesFemales.

Next stop: Millau, France. 5-6 of April.

Speak Your Mind