2013 European Bouldering Championship – Preview

The Bouldering World Cup may be over, but European Boulderers have one more day marked in their calendars. This next Saturday the European Bouldering Championship kicks off in Eindhoven. The last chance of the year to witness Old Continent’s cream of the crop under one roof.

2013 European Bouldering Championship Banner

UPDATE (29/08/2013 19:35): Mike, on the comments, has pointed that Cédric Lachat is not on the starting list anymore. No idea why at this point. Anyway, part of you are about to read is not relevant anymore.

UPDATE (30/08/2013 00:50): Apparently Cédric Lachat cannot take part in the championship as it interferes with his studies (something he can’t miss, nor postpone). What a pity.

The last European Bouldering Championship took place in 2010 in Innsbruck. Local star Anna Stöhr took the gold in the female category while Cédric Lachat won on men’s side. Both climbers will defend their titles in Eindhoven.

Obviously Stöhr is the absolute favorite after her legendary results in the Bouldering World Cup. Aside of Stöhr, Shauna Coxsey is in very good form but the list of candidates is long: Wurm, Le Neve, Iakovleva, Sandoz, Markovic…

Lachat has been among the best competition climbers both in Bouldering and Lead for years and there’s no doubt that he’s capable of winning again. But he will battle against climbers like Dmitry Sharafutdinov (in very good form this year) or Kilian Fischhuber (who, despite his impressive resume in the Bouldering World Cups, has never won a championship and will fight for the title with extra passion).

And of course many others strong climbers will be there ready to take their shot at the continental title (Gelmanov, Hojer, Kruder, Tauporn, Verhoeven, Galiron Mondet, Shalagin…).

Remember that the entire competition will be streamed live at ifsc-climbing.org

Participants
Well… almost everyone who’s European and has been competing in the World Cups this season will be there.

A mayor absence will be that of Thomas Caleyron, who’s injured. Guillaume Glairon Mondet will have the main responsibility in the male French team.

Finnish athlete Anton Johansson, who has made semis a couple of times this year won’t be in Eindhoven either. Nor will UK’s Ned Feehally and Mina Leslie-Wujastyk.

And obviously don’t expect any McColls, Noguchis or Puccios to show up. But don’t worry, Europe has its fair share of bouldering talent (haven’t you noticed?).

You can check the entire starting list here.

Route setters

  • Chief Route Setter : Percy Bishton (GBR)
  • Jacky Godoffe (FRA)

If you follow this blog you’ve heard about this guys before. Bishton was the chief route setter in Kitzbühel and Godoffe did the same in Log-Dragomer. Both were great comps full of nice moves. Having them working side by side should produce amazing boulder problems.

Update (28/08/2013 22:05): Credit where credit is due, these are the Dutch route setters that are assisting Percy and Jacky (thanks to Joost Hofman for the information):

  • Casper ten Sijthoff (who placed 5th in the last European Championship)
  • Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen
  • Dirk Mol (co-owner of Monk bouldergym)
  • Joppe Hauenstein (former chief setter of Monk)
  • Sven Verhoeven (Jorg’s brother)

Timetable
Eindhoven is in the UTC+2 time zone.

Saturday 31

09:00 – Qualification for women

14:30 – Qualification for men

Sunday 1

12:00 – Semi finals

18:00 – Finals

For the details (isolation, award ceremony…) go to the official information document (PDF).
 
Media
Here’s a highlight reel from the 2010 Bouldering World Cup that took place in Eindhoven (with Ondra!):

More info

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    Comments

    1. Well, some favorites are missing in the article… What about jakob schubert? And by the way, lachat is not registered…. Next time please.do a bettet research!!

      • Thanks for the heads-up mike! Lachat was on the starting list, I don’t know what has happened, he competed in Munich…

        And about Schubert… that’s why I ended on “…” there are too many important climbers to name every single one of them.

        But thanks again, I’m gonna correct the article.

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