2015 Munich Bouldering World Cup – Preview

The stakes couldn’t be higher in Munich. 5 male climbers have very clear options at the overall title and the silver and bronze medals of the female overall are up in the air too. And there’s the World Cup itself, which is usually one of the best of the season.

olympic_stadium_munich

Schedule

Munich is in the CEST time zone (UTC+2)

Friday 14th

08:00 – Male Qualifiers
16:30 – Female Qualifiers

Saturday 15th

11:30 – Semifinals (live at ifsc-climbing.org)
18:30 – Finals (live at ifsc-climbing.org)

Everything is ready in Munich’s impressive Olympic Stadium. This is by far the best venue of the World Cup circuit. It is beautiful, big and, brace yourself, it has a roof! And it is a lovely, high, transparent roof, so you get a lot of natural light and the feeling of an outdoor comp while being protected from the elements.

Good venue, good organization, summer weather and a ton of climbing fans make Munich one of the best events of the year. And, to make things even better, there’s a lot at stake for the climbers.

The World Cup in Haiyang left us with Akiyo Noguchi securing the overall title and a lot of uncertainty pretty much everywhere else.

Overall male and femal ranking of the 2015 Bouldering Word Cup after Haiyang

Overall Top 10 after Haiyang (current situation)

The female overall will come down to a battle for the silver among Miho Nonaka, Shauna Coxsey and Petra Klingler. Klingler will have to do really well or wait for Nonaka and Coxsey to do poorly (with luck with that).

Technically Melissa Le Neve can get the silver too, but she’s gonna need a ton of luck (if Nonaka and Coxsey place 16th or better she’s done).

Anna Stöhr and Katharina Saurwein would also have options if they were to compete, but Stöhr is still recovering from the finger injury she sustained in Vail and Saurwein is in Rocklands.

The male overall: anybody’s game
On the male side there are 9 guys who, mathematically, can win any of the 3 medals. But the first 5 are the ones with very real chances of getting the overall gold.

Only 26 points separate Alban Levier, who sits in 5th position, from Jongwon Chon, who leads the board.

26 points is nothing. Just consider that the winner of the world cup will get 100 points, while whoever comes second will get only 80. 65 for the third.

Usually in the last World Cup of the season the top climbers don’t get all the points they make, because the worst result of the season is discarded. So if you win you get 100 points minus the points you got with your worst result.

But this year, with just 5 world cups, things are simple. If you win you get 100 points.

Table with the points awarded to climbers based on her result on a world cup

Points awarded after each World Cup (IFSC Rulebook, section 10.10.2)

Chon, Ondra and Hojer depend on themselves, if they win the World Cup they win the overall. Then things get complicated (feel free to do the math ;). For instance, Rustam Gelmanov, currently in 9th place, would need a miracle to win (even if he wins the World Cup, he won’t win the overall if any of the first 5 guys make finals).

A quick rule of thumb (taking away many special cases) would be that only 5 guys have real options. And those 5 need to make finals and do well in the finals to keep their options. Nobody has it easy.

Two more stats to, once again, stress how tight and hard to predict this is:

  • Every single climber on the male ranking has missed at least one final.
  • Of the top 5 guys only Adam Ondra has been in every single semifinal.

Participants
About 200 climbers will compete in Munich.

Among the big names that won’t compete are Jorg Verhoeven, Katharina Saurwein, Juliane Wurm, Jakob Schubert, Sean McColl, Rebekka Stotz…

Without Fischhuber, Stöhr, Saurwein and Schubert the Austrian team looks brand-new. The only “old rocker” on the team is Lukas Ennemoser.

Canada and the USA have massive teams. 13 Canadians and 12 Americans (including Megan Mascarenas, who won her first gold in Vail).

Jonas Baumann is back! It’s good to see the German star back on the wall.

The Russian team has some strong reinforcements: Alexey Rubtsov, Vadim Timonov, Ekaterina Andreeva and Dinara Fakhritdinova.

You can check out the entire starting list here.

Route setters
Manuel Hassler, from Switzerland, will be the chief route setter. He will be assisted by Matthieu Dutray and Romain Cabessut.

More info

 

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    Comments

    1. Kai Ewert says:

      Verty nice writeup! I also went to sort through the math after the penultimate world cup event and it was no cake walk :)

      • Yes, the math wasn’t easy. I even managed to mess up the few calculations that I did.

        I wrote that Chon, Ondra and Hojer depended on themselves, which was true. But I didn’t figure out that Coleman actually depended on himself too. Had he won the world cup he would have been overall champion no matter what.

        Anyway, thanks for the comment!

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