2016 Bouldering World Championships | Male Semifinal

Very hard problems in the semifinal round for the men. A flash and 3 quick tops were enough to make it to the final round. Great results for the French Team, which has 3 climbers in the top 6.

Update: There was a mistake with Manu’s score. He didn’t get 3 tops but 2. He’s in 4th position with 2t5 3b5.

The finalists are:

  1. Manu Cornu
  2. Adam Ondra
  3. Jeremy Bonder
  4. Mickael Mawem
  5. Tsukuru Hori
  6. Tomoa Narasaki

The route setters got serious in Paris. No more dynos, no big holds, no easy moves. The problems were hard to read and full of very dicey moves. The climbing was slow and insecure, with climbers falling left, right and center.

M2 and M4 were slabs, some of the hardest of the season (M4 saw just one ascent, by Manu Cornu). M3 was complex and fingery, many climbers misread the last moves only to find, a few attempts later, that the “correct” sequence was still hard and painful.

Only M1 was remotely friendly. At least there was something to grab and climbers kind of knew what to do. It was just hard.

Not the most spectacular round to watch and, I bet, not the most fun to climb. But this is the Bouldering World Championship, it is supposed to be hard and challenging. Seemed like the message of the round was “How much do you want it?”.

Quick thoughts:

  • First final of the year for Tsukuru Hori (his last final was Chongqing 2015).
  • Disappointing round for Alban Levier, who went to semis in 1st place and ended up in 12th.
  • Alexey Rubtsov, World Champion in 2009, is in the dreaded 7th place, first man out of finals.
  • Adam Ondra will have the chance to renew at least one of his World Champion titles.
  • Half of the men in the semis didn’t send a single problem, and only 4 climbers got 2 tops or more.

You can check the full results here.

Next: Female Semifinal tomorrow at 9am and Male Final at 5.30pm. Both rounds live at ifsc-climbing.org

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