Alex Puccio and Nathaniel Coleman, 2017 USA Champions

Alex Puccio and Nathaniel Coleman have won the 2017 USA Bouldering Nationals held this weekend in Salt Lake City, Utah. This is Puccio’s 10th National title, an unprecedented record, and Coleman’s second. Ashima Shiraishi, Kai Lightner, Brook Raboutou and Alexey Rubtsov completed the podium.

Una foto publicada por USA Climbing (@usaclimbing) el

Something that was a bit of a funny feeling was being on the podium with 2 other amazingly strong and talented climbers that are both 15! They are 12 years younger than me…..
Alex Puccio

Puccio‘s accomplishment is beyond words. She has won 10 out of the last 12 USA Nationals (she started participating at 16 years of age). Last year she took the silver medal despite coming off a serious knee injury and this time, about half a year after her neck surgery, she took the gold again competing against what’s probably the hardest lineup ever.

Una foto publicada por USA Climbing (@usaclimbing) el

Coleman‘s victory is very impressive too. Just a month ago he partially tore a pulley and hasn’t been training that much. But he managed to sneak into finals in the last place and then climbed perfectly, flashing 4 out of 4 problems.

The other defending champion, Megan Mascarenas, offered a solid performance but perhaps a bit below her usually (mind-blowing) level, ending up in 6th place.

The difficulty of the problems was spot-on, only women’s 4 remained unclimbed but they were really close. Ashima Shiraishi was great to watch, constantly coming up with creative solutions and displaying impressive control and flexibility.

Finally, it must be noted how young the finalists were. 3 of the medals went to teenagers who will be competing next week in the youth championships. Guys like the Rouboutous, Shiraishi and Lightner moved from youth categories directly to kicking ass in adult competitions. I can’t wait to see them in IFSC senior events.

You can check the results here.

Una foto publicada por USA Climbing (@usaclimbing) el

Un vídeo publicado por Flashed (@flashedclimbing) el

Un vídeo publicado por David Connell (@arcwest84) el

Una foto publicada por evolv (@evolvusa) el

Un vídeo publicado por Flashed (@flashedclimbing) el

Un vídeo publicado por Bryan Yamasaki (@climbingby) el

Un vídeo publicado por Bryan Yamasaki (@climbingby) el

Una foto publicada por Andrea Laue (@andrealaue) el

Una foto publicada por Tom Condie (@tomcondie515) el

PS.: Congratulations to Louder Than Eleven, Chris Weidner, Brian Runnels, Neely Quinn and everyone else involved with the coverage. They offered a marathon of live content and did a really good job.


  1. Nice report – and yes, I noticed the ages also. Another new generation comes through and the standard jumps again (i.e. not just the seniors getting weaker). What will it be like by 2020?!

    • I guess that’s the generation that will be battling for the medals in Tokyo. Ashima and Brooke will be 18 (maybe 19, don’t know their exact birthdays), adults but still full of explosive power and flexibility. Or maybe in the next three years some other young star will appear and kick their asses, we’ll see.
      Thanks for the comment!

Speak Your Mind