Bouldering Digest – 16 April 2013

Slovenian crusher Domen Škofic has done some good work in Switzerland. Also, Finnish maverick Nalle Hukkataival has repeated a legendary boulder problem put up by Klem Loskot. That and some other ascents from Robinson, Kassay and Webb. Let the digesting commence!

Hukkataival repeats Klem Loskot’s Bügeleisen
Last week Nalle Hukkataival repeated what he considers “one of the BEST hard boulders in the world“, Bügeleisen 8B+|V14. Located in Maltatal, Austria, the boulder was opened by bouldering legend Klem Loskot back in 2001 (video of the FA).

This iconic problem is frequently wet and for the last 12 years only another climber, Markus Bock, claimed an ascent. It should be pointed out that Bock’s repetition isn’t acknowledged by some, who claim that he never actually climbed the boulder (apparently Bock provided no proof of his accomplishment).

What’s sure is that Hukkataival, after”an epic battle” has added another legendary problem to his impressive ticklist. Congratulations!

Domen Škofic: The Dagger in three attempts and more
Slovenian youngster Domen Škofic has climbed The Dagger 8B+ V14 in just three tries. The Dagger is on the verge of being downgraded (8B | V13 was suggested at least by Chris Schulte, Jan Hojer, James Webb and Škofic himself) but giving how many possible sequences it has, it is remarkable that Škofic managed to send it so quickly.

Skofic climbing The Dagger

Škofic on The Dagger. Screenshot from this video.

Apparently he also climbed Confessions, another problem in the 8B-8B+ | V13-V14 range (in an unknown number of tries, but I’m guessing more than 3). Confessions was the first problem 8B | V13 flashed by Adam Ondra (actually at the time it was considered 8B+ | 14, it was Ondra who, in his “brave and humble” style, suggested the downgrade).

Check out this video, which includes the ascent of The Dagger, and read more on Škofic’s blog.

Other notable ascents

  • Jimmy Webb is back in the USA; to finish his really successful euro trip on a high note he did the first ascent of La Rustica 8B+|V14 in Valle Bavona, Switzerland. More at DPMagazine.
  • In Joe’s Valley, Utah, Paul Robinson has done the first repetition of Jame Litz’s The Insurgency 8B+|V14. More at Paul’s blog.
  • Aussie James Kassay has joined The 8B Flashers Club by flashing Sideways daze 8B | V13 in Fontainebleau, France. Here’s the proof.

Anna Stöhr has a blog, for real
Screenshot of Anna Stöhr's blogAfter winning World Cups and World Championships, after sticking hard dynos and solving tricky slabs, after getting more medals than a neck can hold, the Austrian superstar was running out of ways to improve her resume. But, always on the hunt for weaknesses to correct, she spotted one of the few tiny rough edges that remained unpolished: her blog!

She has changed it completely and she seems to be updating it regularly and… wait for it… in English! Jay! Take that Google Translate!

Here’s the link: Anna Stöhr’s blog
Bookmark it, add it to your RSS Reader, set it as your starting page… now! I’ll wait here…

Meadowlark Lemon video
Earlier this year, Carlo Traversi did the third ascent of Meadowlark Lemon 8C | V15, one of the most beautiful boulder problems out there. Here’s the footage of the ascent along with some other boulders:

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    1. […] he did a flash ascent of Dave Graham’s Kings of Sonlerto, orinally graded 8B+ | V14. He also put up new problems (La Rustica 8B+|V14), repeated test pieces like Ninja Skills or Off the wagon (both 8B+ | […]

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