Bouldering Digest – 25 May 2013

After so many comps we have a lot of real-rock news to catch up with. In the USA Woods and Robinson have been repeating and establishing hard problems. Also, a really cool video on the adventures of Dave Graham and some other bouldering news… Let’s get this started!

The Ice Knife repeated by Woods and Robinson
Dave Graham established The Ice Knife in 2011 giving it the grade of 8C | V15. Last week, Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson went up to Guanella pass, Colorado, to try to repeat it. They quickly found the sequences and a few days later they did the second and third ascent of the problem. Here’s a cool video of Woods and Robinson climbing the problem.

Paul Robinson on The Ice Knife

Paul Robinson on The Ice Knife. Screenshot from this video.

“It is always so awesome to climb something so technical and demanding.  Every move on the boulder is of similar difficulty and the body positions you get yourself into are totally crazy!” Paul Robinson

Here’s the video of the first ascent.

Graham’s path to Bridge of Ashes
Earlier this month a really cool video was released by FiveTenTV. In about 7 minutes it covers a year in the life of Dave Graham. From how he began developing the sector known as Elkland, in Colorado, to the first ascent of Bridge of Ashes 8C | V15, one of the flagship problem of the area.

Daniel Woods did a one-day second ascent of Bridge of Ashes shortly after Graham’s FA. Here’s the video.

Other  newsworthy ascents

  • In Switzerland, Nalle Hukkataival is following the steps of Fred Nicole and repeating some of his first ascents. He has climbed Entlinge 8B+ | V14, Radja and La Danse les Balrogs (both 8B | v13).
  • Daniel Woods has done the first ascent of The Purge 8B+ | V14. More at DPMagazine. Here’s footage of the climb.
  • In Fontainebleau, Iker Arroitajauregi had a nice morning session climbing Kheops assis at 4 a.m. and Gecko assis at 7 a.m. Both considered 8B+ | V14. More at Desnivel (in Spanish).

Payne in Greenland
Angela Payne, one of North America’s strongest boulderers and first women to ever climb a V13, made a bouldering trip to greenland last year. She had already written about it and now Mountain Hardwear is releasing some eye-pleasing footage of the trip:

Vandalism in Camp 4
A guy called James Lucas, famous for failing to climb a route while soloing and not getting killed, felt like getting some traffic on his blog and rationalised himself into erasing Midnight Lightning‘s bolt. Shame on him. Read more about it at Adventure Journal.

And a couple of videos

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