Eric Hörst on finger training

This is a great video about the always complex (and dangerous if you don’t know what you are doing) topic of finger strength training. Eric Hörst, one of the most renowned coaches in climbing, offers a succinct, easy to understand, explanation of two finger training protocols. If you are an intermediate climber looking to improve […]

Mélissa Le Nevé retires from the World Cups

French climber Mélissa Le Nevé has announced her retirement from the international competition scene. After more than 8 years of competition at the highest level, mostly bouldering, she plans to focus on outdoor climbing from now on, without discarding taking part in some invitational events here and there.

Training with the Spanish Team

Last summer the Spanish Bouldering Team organized a training camp to prepare for the IFSC comps. They did competition simulations and worked on their problem-reading skills, their coordination and their slab climbing. I was honored to be invited to shoot video, here’s the final product.

Hojer and Kruder team up to repeat Es Pontas

German powerhouse Jan Hojer and Slovenian star Jernej Kruder are in Mallorca, Spain, working on the most famous deep water soloing (AKA psicobloc) line ever: Chris Sharma’s Es Pontas. Opened by Sharma in 2006, the route remains unrepeated and it is considered one of the hardest on the planet.

Adam Ondra: “My opinion on the Olympics is still very critical”

Here’s an interview with Adam Ondra, recorded right after the bouldering final in Paris 2016. He talks about the competition but also about the Olympic Climbing format, of which he seems to be quite critical, and about his plans to climb El Capitan this fall.

Advertisement done right

Take a look at this awesome video promoting climbing shoes. This is great advertisement. Instead of an annoying distraction getting in your way, this ad is a (very) short and captivating movie telling an inspirational story. It is spectacular, entertaining and I’ve watched it 5 times in a row. And I remember the brand and […]

Olympic Climbing, as close as it gets

Olympic.org reports that climbing is one step closer to being part of the 2020 Olympic Games in Tokyo after the Execute Board of the IOC supported the proposal to add 5 new sports to the program.

Moonwalk, lost in the fire

One of the most iconic problems in the Austrian bouldering area of Zillertal, Moonwalk, is gone forever after the boulder was damaged by a fire lit as part of the spring cleaning of the pastures. There’s some talk of conflict with the landowners but it looks like it was just an accident.

Alex Puccio: from a broken knee, back to the top

One of the most moving and impressive stories of last year was Alex Puccio’s terrible knee injury, her recovery and her return to the highest level of bouldering within a few months. Today Petzl has released a video showing part of that story. Don’t miss it.

Why didn’t Stranik get the bonus?

Martin Stranik didn’t get the bonus on the last problem in Meiringen, despite the fact that he touched it in control. Why? Is that ok? Here’s a quick answer.