Why didn’t Chon get the top in Chongqing? How to identify the TOP

Last Sunday, during the final in Chongqing, Jongwon Chon had to climb M4 twice, since the first time he didn’t match properly. Identifying the top hold is quite easy, but in the heat of the moment, anyone can make a costly mistake. Let’s analyze what happened with Chon and the top of M4.

Free streaming! The IFSC backtracks and cancels the FloClimbing deal

The IFSC has decided, during today’s Monthly Executive Board meeting, to keep the live streaming free and to back down from the deal with FloClimbing. According to the official statement “The live streaming for IFSC will remain free of charge”.

The climbers speak: Open letter from the Athletes’ Commission

Since the IFSC announced its deal with FloClimbing to offer the live streams through a (paid) subscription-based platform, many climbers have spoken out against it. Sean McColl, Jorg Verhoeven, Katharina Saurwein, Jakob Schubert, Shauna Coxsey, Daniel Woods… Today the Athletes’ Commission has spoken too, releasing an open letter in which they criticize the IFSC quite […]

4 minutes flat! No more tops after the beep!

The change in the rulebook

This season, during bouldering finals in IFSC events, climbers will have 4 minutes flat to climb each problem. This is a significant change from the 4 minute “plus” rule, which meant that climbers could finished their attempts (and get tops) even if the time had run out during that attempt. Here are my thoughts on […]

No more livestreaming on YouTube, the IFSC joins FloClimbing

The International Federation of Sport Climbing has just announced a deal with FloClimbing, a subscription-based live streaming website, to offer live coverage of all competitions. For the next 3 years, there will be no free streaming on youtube.

Joel Zerr on competition setting

Joel Zerr, Head Setter at Momentum Millcreek, shares his thoughts on competition route setting, what goes into setting a successful comp round and how it differs from day to day commercial setting.

Jan Hojer getting close on The Big Island sit start

Jan Hojer has spent some time in Fontainbleau trying one of the longest standing projects in the forest, the sit start to The Big Island. A few days ago Hojer published a short video in which he does most of the moves of the traverse into The Big Island and then a couple of moves […]

Sponsorships 101 with Sierra Blair-Coyle

American climber Sierra Blair-Coyle is one of the most recognizable faces of the sport at the moment. You’ve probably seen her not just in competitions but also all over your social media and maybe even climbing a building with the help of a vacuum cleaner. She’s an absolute expert in sponsorship deals and she’s written […]

Eric Hörst on finger training

This is a great video about the always complex (and dangerous if you don’t know what you are doing) topic of finger strength training. Eric Hörst, one of the most renowned coaches in climbing, offers a succinct, easy to understand, explanation of two finger training protocols. If you are an intermediate climber looking to improve […]

Mélissa Le Nevé retires from the World Cups

French climber Mélissa Le Nevé has announced her retirement from the international competition scene. After more than 8 years of competition at the highest level, mostly bouldering, she plans to focus on outdoor climbing from now on, without discarding taking part in some invitational events here and there.