The new USA Scoring System, an alternative to the IFSC System?

USA Climbing has a new scoring system for bouldering. A very simple and direct method for assessing the performance of the climbers that tries to keep it as easy to understand as possible while still dividing the field in the fairest way possible.

Chris Sharma in World Cup!? | Sunday Sends

Chris Sharma is an absolute climbing legends, famous for his cutting-edge first ascents in bouldering, lead and deep water soloing. And although he’s not known for his comp climbing, back in the day he took part in a handful of international competitions. Let’s see him competing in France in 2001, when dinosaurs ruled the Earth.

Drift, Adam Ondra’s latest 8C | V15 in Holštejn

After sending his super project in Norway, Adam Ondra is back home, training and having fun in the local area of Holštejn, located to the north of his hometown, Brno. His latest hard first ascent is Drift, a hard boulder/traverse that he considers 8C | V15.

Video: Training with Paul Robinson

American boulderer Paul Robinson shares some of his indoor training, focusing mostly on campus exercises. He’s getting ready for his goal for the upcoming season, Bügeleisen sit, V16 | 8C+ V15 | 8C in Austria first climbed by Nalle Hukkataival.

“My mental game is a lot stronger” | Alex Puccio interview

Here’s an interview with American climber Alex Puccio, recorded right after the super final in Stuttgart. She talks about her outlook on competitions, her victory in Adidas Rockstars and her plans for the future. Enjoy!

How many climbers per country can take part in a World Cup?

How many climbers per country are allowed in IFSC competitions? Is there a limit? Is it the same for every country? And if so… how come the Japanese team had more than 40 climbers in Hachioji? Here are the answers!

Why didn’t Chon get the top in Chongqing? How to identify the TOP

Last Sunday, during the final in Chongqing, Jongwon Chon had to climb M4 twice, since the first time he didn’t match properly. Identifying the top hold is quite easy, but in the heat of the moment, anyone can make a costly mistake. Let’s analyze what happened with Chon and the top of M4.

Free streaming! The IFSC backtracks and cancels the FloClimbing deal

The IFSC has decided, during today’s Monthly Executive Board meeting, to keep the live streaming free and to back down from the deal with FloClimbing. According to the official statement “The live streaming for IFSC will remain free of charge”.

The climbers speak: Open letter from the Athletes’ Commission

Since the IFSC announced its deal with FloClimbing to offer the live streams through a (paid) subscription-based platform, many climbers have spoken out against it. Sean McColl, Jorg Verhoeven, Katharina Saurwein, Jakob Schubert, Shauna Coxsey, Daniel Woods… Today the Athletes’ Commission has spoken too, releasing an open letter in which they criticize the IFSC quite […]

4 minutes flat! No more tops after the beep!

The change in the rulebook

This season, during bouldering finals in IFSC events, climbers will have 4 minutes flat to climb each problem. This is a significant change from the 4 minute “plus” rule, which meant that climbers could finished their attempts (and get tops) even if the time had run out during that attempt. Here are my thoughts on […]