4 minutes flat! No more tops after the beep!

The change in the rulebook

This season, during bouldering finals in IFSC events, climbers will have 4 minutes flat to climb each problem. This is a significant change from the 4 minute “plus” rule, which meant that climbers could finished their attempts (and get tops) even if the time had run out during that attempt. Here are my thoughts on […]

No more livestreaming on YouTube, the IFSC joins FloClimbing

The International Federation of Sport Climbing has just announced a deal with FloClimbing, a subscription-based live streaming website, to offer live coverage of all competitions. For the next 3 years, there will be no free streaming on youtube.

Joel Zerr on competition setting

Joel Zerr, Head Setter at Momentum Millcreek, shares his thoughts on competition route setting, what goes into setting a successful comp round and how it differs from day to day commercial setting.

Jan Hojer getting close on The Big Island sit start

Jan Hojer has spent some time in Fontainbleau trying one of the longest standing projects in the forest, the sit start to The Big Island. A few days ago Hojer published a short video in which he does most of the moves of the traverse into The Big Island and then a couple of moves […]

Sponsorships 101 with Sierra Blair-Coyle

American climber Sierra Blair-Coyle is one of the most recognizable faces of the sport at the moment. You’ve probably seen her not just in competitions but also all over your social media and maybe even climbing a building with the help of a vacuum cleaner. She’s an absolute expert in sponsorship deals and she’s written […]

Eric Hörst on finger training

This is a great video about the always complex (and dangerous if you don’t know what you are doing) topic of finger strength training. Eric Hörst, one of the most renowned coaches in climbing, offers a succinct, easy to understand, explanation of two finger training protocols. If you are an intermediate climber looking to improve […]

Mélissa Le Nevé retires from the World Cups

French climber Mélissa Le Nevé has announced her retirement from the international competition scene. After more than 8 years of competition at the highest level, mostly bouldering, she plans to focus on outdoor climbing from now on, without discarding taking part in some invitational events here and there.

Training with the Spanish Team

Last summer the Spanish Bouldering Team organized a training camp to prepare for the IFSC comps. They did competition simulations and worked on their problem-reading skills, their coordination and their slab climbing. I was honored to be invited to shoot video, here’s the final product.

Hojer and Kruder team up to repeat Es Pontas

German powerhouse Jan Hojer and Slovenian star Jernej Kruder are in Mallorca, Spain, working on the most famous deep water soloing (AKA psicobloc) line ever: Chris Sharma’s Es Pontas. Opened by Sharma in 2006, the route remains unrepeated and it is considered one of the hardest on the planet.

Adam Ondra: “My opinion on the Olympics is still very critical”

Here’s an interview with Adam Ondra, recorded right after the bouldering final in Paris 2016. He talks about the competition but also about the Olympic Climbing format, of which he seems to be quite critical, and about his plans to climb El Capitan this fall.