Rab CWIF 2017 Review

The Climbing Works International Festival was a very special competition, full of stars and with a fun and relaxed atmosphere. Here are my thoughts on the event and the route setting.


  1. Interesting and thought provoking review. The one thing I would disagree with is that the semis have to be so hard. The semis could have up to 4 flashes and still separate the men. And if several climbers got the same score using countback to the 30 problem qualifier, that should separate the climbers. The problem with so few tops – only Jogwon got more than one – means that luck plays a much bigger factor in the result.

    It was a shame Rustam didn’t make the final. In the semis his top of problem 2 was impressive, a feat matched only by one other climber (Jongwon) out of twenty.

    The thing I thought after this year’s CWIF was it seems like it might be fairer if previous rounds counted in some way to the overall result. Jongwon Chon was clearly the best climber at this comp but in the end only came second. With the diverse nature of bouldering luck plays a significant factor. Whether you’re lucky enough to get a boulder in your favourite style (crimp, slopers, roof, slab, compression etc.) that’s not too hard so you can do it but not so easy that everyone else can is often the decisive factor. Luck plays less of a role the more problems there are. Over the course of all the World Cups this evens out. But not all competitors can attend the whole circuit and it would be better if luck played a smaller role in the individual competitions.

    Finally I thought getting rid of the 4+ rule was terrible – and another factor there were so few tops in the final.

    • Rustam’s top of problem 2 in the semis was great. My favorite moment in the semis. I still don’t know how he did that last move.
      My message about the semis wasn’t so much that they must be hard, but that they can be really hard and I don’t have too much of a problem with it.
      I agree, Chon looked the stronger climber throughout the comp, but gotta give Megos credit, even with a so-so finger the guy performed like a champ.
      And I agree, the 4min rule was one of the reasons we got so few tops.
      Thanks for such a good comment Steve!

  2. :-)

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