Hard climbs on the Dreamtime Boulder by Cotting and Schubert

The legendary Dreamtime Boulder, in Cresciano, Switzerland, has seen a lot of traffic lately. After the repetitions of The Story of Two Worlds by Khazanov, Rauch and Jelonek, the line has also been climbed by Sebastian Cotting. Meanwhile, on the other side of the boulder, Jackob Schubert climbed Dreamtime.

Cotting has worked on the problem for more than three years, trying to find the best possible beta to climb the line. It seems like the effort paid off and the Swiss managed to repeat the problem from Dai Koyamada’s low starting position.

After all the Betas we found (kneebar, heel-toe-lock), I think “Story” is closer to 8B+ than to 8C. Thanks to everybody, who helped me, to find all this crucial micro-betas.
Cottting on The Story of Two Worlds

On the same boulder, but on the other side, Jakob Schubert decided to try Fred Nicole’s ultra-classic Dreamtime. Looks like the line fit him well and the Austrian crusher pulled off an impressive 1-day ascent.

Last day – best day: I wanted to try to send The Story of Two Worlds in Cresciano but didn’t feel strong on the first part, so I decided to try Dreamtime [8B+] for the first time since it was nicely in the shade. Everything felt really solid right away and I surprised myself with a quick ascent just before leaving back home.
Shubert on his ascent of Dreamtime

Jakob Schubert flashing Rah Plats Plats, 8A | V11, also in Cresciano

Schubert seem to be in top shape. So far, in 2018, he has climbed his third 9b route (Stocking the fire), he has flashed an 8B+ boulder (Catalan Witness the Fitness) and climbed the speed climbing route in under 8 seconds. He’s looking good for Tokyo 2020!

Schubert climbing the speed climbing route in 7.77 seconds

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