Jan Hojer climbing Quoi de Neuf 8C | V15

Impressive video of Jan Hojer’s climbing Quoi de Neuf, a long roof problem in Fontainebleau graded 8C | V15. Rémy Bergasse did the first ascent in 2008 and it was repeated in 2015 by Sébastien Bouin and Alban Levier.

Two years ago I tried it for the first time together with James Webb. We both flashed the second part of the 30move line, which checks in at 8A+/8B by itself and did the first 7C+ish part the same session. But we couldn’t link it that day due to a lack of time and endurance.
I had high hopes, coming off a couple months of lead training this time!
It took me a while to get all the moves wired again but after some time the muscle memory kicked in. I took a long rest, going through the moves over and over again in my head before my first try from the start.
I got through the first part efficiently and felt much better compared to my first session! I tried to stay as calm as possible and somehow kept it together throughout the second part!

Jan Hojer on Facebook

By the way, Jan Hojer won the German Lead Championship two days after sending this problem. Talk about active recovery.

Also, the second part of the problem, graded 8B | V13, was flashed by both Hojer and Jimmy Webb last year.


Rémy Bergasse doing the first ascent of Quoi de Neuf in 2008
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