Joel Zerr on competition setting

Joel Zerr, Head Setter at Momentum Millcreek, shares his thoughts on competition route setting, what goes into setting a successful comp round and how it differs from day to day commercial setting.

“When you set a competition, you are setting for an entertainment piece. You want it to be entertaining, you want it to be showy for an audience”

I found his comments on fairness quite interesting. A given problem can be “unfair” or a bit morpho (meaning that it favors a given body type, for instance being tall), but as long as the overall round is fair that is ok. Many times we focus on the problem that looks easier for, say, tall climbers, and miss the fact that all the other problems may be slightly easier for short people.

Una publicación compartida de Joel Zerr (@joelzerr) el

Joel taking down Shaken Not Stirred, V12 | 8A+, in Hueco Tanks.

As a climber, Zerr has done many double digits outdoors, including several V13s, and has competed internationally in 6 IFSC Bouldering World Cups.

Last year, he and his partner, Alex Puccio (you may have heard of her), moved from Boulder to Salt Lake City to work at Momentum Millcreek. He’s the Head Setter, she coaches.

Zerr is also into film-making, he’s done a bunch of short bouldering movies, check out Zerr Productions’ Vimeo page and Joel’s Youtube Channel. Here’s one of his videos:

And if you wanna know more about him, check out the Spot’s profile on him.

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