Massive 8C Catch-Up

Time to play catch up with all the super hard ascents that have been done all over the world in the last weeks. Grab a map, let’s go!

We gonna start our trip in the USA, where Matt Fultz, Ethan Pringle and Keenan Takahashi have ticked off two mega lines.

Fultz on Expansion

In Joe’s Valley, Utah, Fultz has done the first ascent of Expansion, calling it “possibly Joe’s Valley’s hardest problem and probably one of its best” and grading it 8C | V15. The name seems to be a reference to the fact that the problem is morpho (easier if you are tall and have a big wingspan).

To the South-West of Utah, in the Red Rocks of Nevada, Ethan Pringle and Keenan Takahashi repeated The Nest, a big line first climbed by Daniel Woods back in 2013. Looks like it was quite a battle for both of them. Make sure you check Pringle’s post about the projecting process and the ascent.

Takahashi on The Nest: 'So much microbeta, self-doubt intertwined with self-belief, existential crises in full effect, and finally the strangest and most wild sensation of place in the world. Many huge mental and physical battles but the war is finally over!'

From Nevada we go West, to Japan, where Dai Koyamada keeps opening 8C’s. The latest, Arobayo, located in Yakushima, tested his mental strength with its dicey moves up high.

A series of pictures of Koyamada on Arobayo

Meanwhile, also in Japan, two of Koyamada’s first ascents have been repeated.

Orochi, located in the area of Konoto, has been climbed by Nomura Shinichiro. Apparently, it only took him 1 hour! You can see Makoto Yamauchi climbing the line here.

And Daisuke Iichimiya climbed Gekirin, which Koyamada opened in January.

Ichimiya on Gekirin

And we keep traveling west, to finish our world tour in Europe. Were climbers have been topping 8C’s all over the place.

In Fontainebleau, France, Giuliano Cameroni repeated The Big Island, one of the most iconic (and hardest) lines in the forest. Also in Font, Vasque climber Ander Mendieta climbed Mecanique Elementaire, which was initially graded 8C | V15 but that lately has been graded 8B+ | V14.

Cameroni on The Big Island

In the South of France, close to the town of Rioupéroux, French climber Clément Lechaptois has opened his first 8C | V15 boulder called Malédiction assis.

I found that thing a step harder than anything I’ve done, or at least really tried, so if the future repetitors confirm it, that could be my first 8C.
But no matter the grade, I really enjoyed the whole process of trying again and again.

Lechaptois about his ascent of Malédiction assis

Lechaptois on Malédiction assis

In Spain, Alberto Rocasolano won’t stop climbing 8C’s. The latest, Hipoxia, is about 14 moves long on very small crimps, followed by a hard mantle. The same boulder hosts Paralisis espastica (another 8C opened last summer by Cesar Quero), with which Hipoxia shares several holds.

Rocasolano on Hipoxia

And, to finish this 8C-themed trip, we gonna review Martin Stranik’s visit to Switzerland. Over there the Czech crusher has repeated several double digits, including Der mit dem Fels Tanzt, an 8C opened by Martin Keller in 2012 and Hukkataival’s Ninja Skills, 8B+ | V14.

Here you have Stranik in action:

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