Miho Nonaka, Newborn Star | Sunday Sends

This Sunday we witness Japanese star Miho Nonaka making her way to her first World Cup final. It was in Innsbruck, back in 2014. She was just 16 years old.


  1. Great control of the swing when she cuts loose. Miho always looks like one of the more powerful women climbers. In an interview from a few years ago she said she did weight training on her ‘rest’ days.

    • AngelPalacio says:

      Weight lifting as rest… I wouldn’t be surprised. In this problem she displays a lot of pulling strength.

  2. I am fairly sure you have to match the finishing hold controlled with both hands, her right hand merely slaps the last hold repeatedly. She may not have been given the problem on another day or another comp

    • AngelPalacio says:

      Good point. Nowadays climbers are reminded, usually in every technical meeting before each WC, that this kind of “match-by-slapping” is not valid and they risk not getting the top (in fact they shouldn’t get the top but sometimes they get away with it). It happened during the final in Haiyang 2015 to Minoru Nakano (https://youtu.be/CVVeBgVJ0VQ?t=1h2m36s).

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