Nacho Sánchez crushes on

Spanish boulderer Nacho Sánchez is having a very productive season on rock, including a new 8C proposal in Spain and an impressive ticklist during his visit to Rocklands (where he repeated Monkey Wedding, 8C | V15).

Nacho Sánchez climbing Cthulhu

Nacho Sánchez on Cthulhu 8C | V15

4th 8C proposal in Spain
Last May Sánchez opened his 4th 8C in Spain, Cthulhu, in a relatively unknown area in the North coast, right by the sea.

Cthulhu climbs an overhanging face, involving small cracks and edges. Aside of it’s pure difficulty, the location of the boulder (right on the shoreline) makes it really challenging to climb, since the conditions depend a lot on the weather, the tides, the wind and the waves.

Sánchez opened the first 8C | V15 boulder problem in Spain back in 2011 with Entropía. The year after he finished his spectacular project Insomnio, an impressive roof in Crevillente. Last year, in that same cave, he climbed Crisis, his hardest problem to date, to which he gave a ‘slash’ grade, suggesting that it may be 8C+ | V16.

Sánchez has been working with Eva Lopez, a climbing trainer (and a very accomplished climber herself), who’s known for her scientific studies on finger strength training.

It seems that the training has paid off and that Sánchez is on very good shape even for him (his fitness level has always been on the jaw-dropping side of the scale).

Productive visit to Rocklands
Sánchez has just returned from South Africa with an impressive ticklist. His goal of the trip was Fred Nicole’s Monkey Wedding. An 8C | V15 graded problem that has seen very few repetitions.

It’s a great problem, with very compact rock and perfect crimps, very complete, physical and technical at the same time“. The Spaniard had tried it during his previous visit, 4 years ago. This time he trained for it specifically and it paid off, he did it in a total of 6 sessions.

What attracted Sánchez to Monkey Wedding, aside of the quality of the line itself, was its status as one the hardest problems in the world. “It sits in the most famous sector in Rocklands, very easy to access, lots of people try it but it has just a few repetitions”.

This is the first 8C | V15 that Sánchez repeats (not counting Kemena and Kike, two 8C proposals in Spain that he considers 8B+).

The quick ascent of his main goal left Sánchez with plenty of time to get on other hard problems. His ticklist includes repetitions of Gogoan (8B+, put up by another Spaniard, Rubén Díaz, in 2012), The Vice (8B, “one of the best compression problems“), Amandla (8B+, “one of the best lines in the world“) and Golden Shadow8B+ (but 8B for Sánchez). Apparently he was really close to flashing that last one, falling on the last section.

Very impressive indeed. I’m guessing he still has a ton of problems he’d like to climb down there, but they will have to wait, Sánchez is back in Spain and looking for new projects to crush.

Credits: Pics of Amandla, Monkey Wedding and Gogoan by David Lee. Pic of The Vice by Iván Morillas. Pics of Golden Shadow and Cthulhu by Nacho Sánchez (from his blog and instagram)

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