Nacho Sánchez ticks off ‘Crisis’ 8C/+

Spanish boulderer Nacho Sánchez has sent his long-term project Crisis, in his own words, his hardest ascent ever. Located in Crevillente (south-east Spain), Crisis is a long problem that traverses a massive roof requiring power, resistance and tons of body tension.

r

UPDATE: Video of the first ascent

Crisis has been a long battle for Sánchez. He had done all the moves more than two years ago, but linking them was the real challenge. “It has no extreme moves, but you can’t relax and it wears you down by the second“. Crisis is indeed a resistence test-piece, 21 moves in total, the first 18 on the roof, hanging from small pinches and edges.

About the grade, Sánchez says it is harder than any other 8Cs he has done or tried. “It may be because I’m not used to long problems. But on the other hand the style of climbing (a roof with toehooks, pinches and crimps) is what I would consider one of my strong points […] so it could be 8C/+“.

Pictures by Rebeca Morillo. Hi-res versions at nacho-boulder.blogspot.com

In 2011 Sánchez became the first Spaniard to climb an 8C. Since then the has put up another two 8C proposals (including Crisis) and repeated hard problems all over Europe (he’s one of the few who has flashed an 8B). Competing he has been Spanish champion and has made semifinals in several World Cups, being close to finals in Vienna 2012 (where he placed 9th).

You can get an idea of what Crisis must look like with this video of Insomnio, which is located in the same cave:

Insomnio 8C (FA) from Nacho Sánchez on Vimeo.

Spread the word!

    Trackbacks

    1. […] project Insomnio, an impressive roof in Crevillente. Last year, in that same cave, he climbed Crisis, his hardest problem to date, to which he gave a ‘slash’ grade, suggesting that it may […]

    2. […] Sánchez did the first ascent two years ago and since then the line remained unrepeated. Flor climbed the standing start last summer and […]

    3. […] some uncut footage of Jonatan Flor climbing Crisis, an extremely hard roof problem (8C/+ | V15/16) opened by Nacho Sánchez and repeated by Flor two months […]

    Speak Your Mind

    *