Narasaki and Garnbret claim the gold in Moscow

Tomoa Narasaki and Janja Garnbret have won the second bouldering World Cup of 2018. Jernej Kruder, Miho Nonaka, Gregor Vezonik and Akiyo Noguchi completed the podium.

The final was a great show full of problems that were fun to watch and looked fun to climb. Perfect difficulty for both categories, perhaps a tiny bit too easy for the women.

The boulders were full of powerful moves and hard pulls, lots of small holds too. It seems like the “old school” style is coming back, but still, don’t get any ideas, almost all the problems in the final had some kind of jump.

Great results for Slovenia and Japan. A medal of each color for both teams. Nonaka and Garnbret got the exact same score on each final boulder, the count back to semis decided the winner.

Gregor Vezonik offered an impressive performance in his first final.

Nonaka is looking good for the overall, given that Janja Garnbret will skip a lot of bouldering events.

Full results here: men & women.

Here’s the replay:

The next World Cup will be in Chongqing, China, in 2 weeks.

Comments

  1. Nice comp. Despite a few jumps it looked more like climbing than “circus”, and at the same time it was still a great show. Not sure the public could see how small were some holds, I think it was better on the streaming with nice viewing angles.
    The best ones at new school style like Narasaki are also very strong for basic powerful moves, and it’s nice there were few of them.
    For the negative points, a few zones were not on the correct holds, like in the semis for the girls were the zone was before first hard move. Almost all girls made the zone onsight and the few ones who did the double dyno and didn’t top were not rewarded.
    On final blue problem, the hand change on the small hold was very bad, I hope it was not the beta of the routesetters, but in the end all climbers match. Crimping like this on one or two fingers is very impressive but not very beautiful and source of injuries.
    About safety I’m not a fan of hard dynamic moves at the top. I’m pretty sure that many climbers don’t try jumps because of dangerous falls. It depends how your body is positioned but swings can make you fall frontwards with risk of whiplash for instance. Is it bouldering or psycobloc ?
    The level of commitment for the last moves is a bit too severe. There are rules for downwards jumps and for the height of the last foot holds -1m below top at 4.5m (which is generally not respected when feet are really close from top like in dihedrals), but it’s general rules that don’t take into account the real risks. Last move can be dangerous with feet low and the contrary can also be true.
    Lateral dyno in blue Ws boulder of the semis was nice, fall was not so nice but distance to ground was ok.
    But cross dyno for last pb of Ws final was far from the ground, also Ms final with the lateral dyno from the dihedral. In the end no injury, not because it wasn’t dangerous, but because either the climbers were sure to do the move, or they didn’t try the dynamic way and failde trying static. To me it’s not the essence of bouldering where you should be able to climb at your physical maximum and not being limited by fear and risks of injury. Also even if you are sure to have the power you can have a hand or foot slip at the wrong moment.
    The example of US comps with very long moves very far from the ground is not the right example to follow, it’s not ninja warrior (where you fall into water – which is less traumatic :-) ). This climbing style is very new and I’d like to see all those guys and gilrs when they will be 40+…

    • AngelPalacio says:

      Wow, thanks for such a thoughtful comment!
      I think the beta for M2 was what Jernej tried the first time, going with the right hand while toe hooking the wall. But apparently, those guys are so strong that matching looked and felt ok.
      About jumps near the top, I think it is part of the sport and I don’t have much of a problem with it as long as it is within the rules. We’ve seen much worse (https://youtu.be/S_XVc9pWxRU?t=2m47s). I think the psychological aspect is important, IFSC comps are not about climbing at your physical maximum, otherwise they wouldn’t have so many easy problems with little rest. Dealing with doubt and different types of fear is part of almost every sport. Also, I haven’t read any complaints from the climbers, I think sometimes we are more scared watching that they are climbing.
      And yes, Narasaki seem to bee in any kind of school (old, new, whatever).

  2. Good point, Jebiji. Indeed, those side jumps to the top sloppers (high in the wall) are dangerous
    https://youtu.be/8J7ztzifPw0?t=3773
    and should be avoided. You could break your wrist, hurt your arm or in worst case (more rotation with the back heading to the ground) break your neck…
    Thanks god Aleksey is a real gymnast…

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