Nico Ceria pays a productive visit to New Zealand

Italian climber Niccolo Ceria has been bouldering in the limestone area of Castle Hill, New Zealand. There he repeated several hard lines and did the first ascent of a couple of long-standing projects. And he flashed a V13!

Ceria on Trifecta Middle V13

Coming back from a shoulder injury may not be the best moment to flash a V13 | 8B but Ceria managed to pull it off. And not a friendly V13 by any stretch of the imagination, but Trifecta Middle, a friction-dependent and tricky line that Chris Sharma opened back in 2005. This was Ceria’s third V13 flash, after The Hourglass sds and Ubik assis.

The Italian seems to be happy with his shoulder’s progression but acknowledges that he’s still not fully recovered: “While the right arm can stay locked for more than 15 seconds, the left arm doesn’t even have the impulse to keep a lock-off.“.

Ceria on Fatal Flaw

New Zealand looking inviting

Castle Hill is known for its physical climbing, full of mantles and weird moves on very slopey surfaces. It doesn’t sound like the best place to boulder while recovering your shoulder but Ceria’s visit has been pretty successful. His tick list during this trip includes like Fatal Flaw V13 and V11’s like Pathological Liar, The Rad Dyno or Mortality Sequence.

He also managed to do the first ascents of a couple of long-standing projects: Gisele Bundchen and Samson (which he named Franco Columbu), both graded V11 | 8A.

Here’s Chris Sharma doing the first ascent of Trifecta middle V13 | 8B:


  1. […] Trifecta middle – Castle Hill – 2018 […]

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