Noguchi and Narasaki get ready for the season in Innsbruck

The brand new Kletterzentrum Innsbruck is the place to be. Climbers from all over the planet are visiting the state of the art climbing facility to train at the highest level. The latest visitors are Japanese superstars Akiyo Noguchi and Tomoa Narasaki.

Innsbruck 2018 has published an interview with both of them in which they talk about their plans for the season, their role in Team Japan and the upcoming generation of crushers.

There are many good bouldering gyms in Japan, but there are no good facilities for lead and speed. So I can climb all kinds in one day here. I think from now on combined will be important so I came here!
Tomoa Narasaki

Noguchi and Narasaki are the latest international visitors to stay in Innsbruck to train. Last year Jan Hojer stayed there to improve his lead and speed climbing game. The powerful Slovenian team has also trained there and recently French crusher Manu Cornu has been around testing his skills.

Comments

  1. Right, Olympics is such a magnet that is seems everyone has ‘excepted’ IFSC’s unnatural decision to force everyone to train in all three disciplines. Even if they must travel around the globe to have some proper training.
    Actually, almost everyone:
    https://www.klettern.de/anak-verhoeven-pushing-the-limits.1792132.5.htm
    Respect, Anak!

    • AngelPalacio says:

      I didn’t know that Anak was “taking a stand” against the combined format. It will be interesting to see if that helps her in the lead world cups (she will remain a specialist while the rest “invest” time in speed and bouldering).

      • Yeah, she probably has more time for outdoors and more focus to lead comps than others ‘combined’ climbers. But my point is there are almost no ‘combined’ outdoor climbers (most on them are specialised boulderers or sport climbers but not both) and there were very rare in comps until IFSC invented his format from nowhere (with the exception of McColl, three times overall world champion with some good results in lead and bouldering, but still mediocre results in speed). And start to change rules (shorter time for lead) and IFSC routesetters changing lead climbing to more boulder-like, so favoring boulderers against lead climbers in Olympics. It takes a woman(!) to have guts to tell IFSC this is the dead end of competition climbing.

        • AngelPalacio says:

          I dislike the combined format, but I don’t think it will be the dead end of comp climbing. Comp climbing has too much momentum to be stopped by this. In fact, I think the Olympic thing will make it grow faster. I don’t know if it that’s a good thing, I hope so.

          • I also think Olympics will make comp climbing grow faster. But not in a direction of only one, combined discipline, but two (lead/boulder) or three (&speed) disciplines at 2024 Olympics. If not at the 2024 Olympics, I don’t see it as a problem. (I hope) comp climbers will once again be what they always have been: speed climbers, boulderers and sport (lead) climbers.

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