Preview | Munich Bouldering World Cup and European Championships

The Bouldering World Cup season comes to an end this weekend in Munich. The Bavarian capital will host the biggest IFSC World Cup ever, with 292 climbers on the starting list. This event will decide the male overall title as well as the European Championships.

Schedule (Timezone: UTC+2)

Friday 18

Qualifiers
Saturday 19
10:00 – Semifinals – (live at ifsc-climbing.org)
18:00 – Finals – (live at ifsc-climbing.org)

More info

There’s something about the World Cup in Munich that makes it the event that nobody wants to miss. Good weather, beautiful city, lots of motivated fans, top-notch organization, spectacular venue… what’s not to like?

The event keeps growing and beating records year after year. This time, with almost 300 climbers, they are really pushing the limits of the WC format. It would be close to impossible to accommodate more climbers without adding an extra day.

On Friday, the qualifiers will have to start at 7am and last the entire day. That’s not ideal for those who will have to wait 8 hours in isolation. Not only will they be bored out of their minds and running low on motivation… they will face a much warmer wall than those climbing at 7, 8 or 9am. And the holds will be much dirtier and with worse texture.

Of course, that super long starting list includes all the stars we’ve seen throughout the season (including Alex Puccio, who hasn’t competed in Europe since 2014, when she took the silver medal in the World Champs).

We’ll also get to see German star Alex Megos. The young crusher usually focuses his efforts on rock climbing but will be squeezing plastic this weekend. The last time he competed internationally was in 2012, also in Munich.

You can check the starting list here.

The male overall math
Munich will decide the male overall title. On the female side Shauna Coxsey secured the title (her second) in Navi Mumbai, but the male title still has 3 candidates.

Jongwon Chon is in first place but Alexey Rubtsov is close behind.

Keita Watabe also has options but needs some luck. He needs to win and hope that Chon is 11th or worse.

Rubtsov needs to make podium and wait to see how Chon does. If Rubtsov is third, Chon would win by placing 10th or better. If Rubtsov is second, Chon needs to make finals. Finally, if Rubtsov wins Chon could still secure the title by taking the silver medal.

You can check the World Cup Ranking here: men & women.

The European Championships
Munich will host the Bouldering European Championships, which will be more or less included in the World Cup.

Fitting the European Champs into a World Cup is not as easy as you might think, and the solution that will be used can be confusing.

The basics are these:
After the qualification, the top 10 Europeans of each qualification group will compete on the semifinal boulders.

Those who make semifinals normally (by being in the top 10 of their groups after the qualification) will compete in the semifinal like in any other World Cup.

Those who don’t make semis will compete on the same boulders right after the semifinal (completing this way a sort of Europeans-only semifinal).

The European ranking after the semifinal will be the final ranking of the European Championships (regardless of what happens during the final).

If you are a bit confused about all this check out this other post.

Route setters
Matthieu Dutray, from France will be chief setter. He will be assisted by Tomas Oleksy and Romain Cabessut.

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