Qualifiers | Hachioji Bouldering World Cup 2017

The good route setting continues in Hachioji. Today climbers faced powerful and dynamic lines that saw a lot of tops. The Japanese team keeps crushing (they have 3 climbers in 1st position). There were no big surprises on the female round. On the male side, as usual, there was carnage.

Today the competition venue in Hachioji had a sizeable audience for a qualifying round, especially given that the entrance wasn’t free (each ticket was a thousand yen, about 8 euros or 9 US dollars). According to official figures, almost 2 thousand people turned up to watch. The tickets for tomorrow are already sold out.

They certainly had a good time, cheering and clapping all day while enjoying some of the best competition bouldering on the planet. The route setters made it easy, offering climbable and dynamic problems, with a lot of dicey moves.

(also, a lot of people watched the comp online, thanks to the live stream offered by the Japanese Mountaineering Association)

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Nonaka keeping an eye on Coxsey, both are in 1st place. Pic by Eddie Fowke.

We saw a lot of tops today, every problem was climbed by at least three climbers. The cutting points for the woman were 4T18 and 3T5 5B6. For the men 4T9 and 4T5 5B6. A total of 17 climbers topped 5 boulders.

The female side didn’t have big surprises, but strong climbers like Leah Crane, Katja Kadic or Momoka Oda won’t be climbing tomorrow.

The male round was as cruel as usual (just 20 spots for so many top dogs…). Some of the world cup finalists that didn’t make the cut are Jan Hojer, Jernej Kruder, Rustam Gelmanov (who has some problems in his lower back and can’t move as freely as he’d like), James Kassay, Michael Piccolruaz, Martin Stranik, Dave Barrans, Sean McColl, Rolands Rugens, Stefan Scarperi, Minoru Nakano or Sergii Topishko.

Team Japan has 8 climbers in the top 10, with Nonaka, Ogata and Hori in 1st place (Hori is tied with Chon with 5 flashes). France also had good results, 6 climbers in semis.

Full results: men & women.

Semifinals tomorrow at 9am (UTC+9). Live at ifsc-climbing.org

Oh… and if you think you can predict the winners make sure you take part in our giveaway, we have prizes by Five Ten, Euro Holds and Climbskin!

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