Results | Hachioji Bouldering World Cup 2017

Janja Garnbret and Alexey Rubtsov have won the 2017 Hachioji Bouldering World Cup. The podium was completed by Akiyo Noguchi, Tomoa Narasaki, Miho Nonaka and Keita Watabe.

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The male final was as exciting as they come. With a lot of options open until the very last tries. Two last-second tops by Akiyo Noguchi and Tomoa Narasaki proved that the 4 min flat rule has its upsides and can offer memorable moments too.

Full results: men & women

Update: Narasaki beating the clock on M1

And here’s the replay:

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    Comments

    1. steve says:

      The IFSC have released a preview for for the Tokyo World Cup too. At the end it mentions the Olympic Channel. I’m wondering if this is where the IFSC are headed after the blown out Flosports deal?
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EuuofdMjWr0

      https://www.olympicchannel.com/en/sports/sport-climbing/
      None of the videos seem to work though.

    2. Kai Ewert says:

      Watching the replay (before reading this post), I had thought the exact same thing about the 4 min rule! I was sad to see the “+” go, remembering as you did many memorable moments due to it. But this even made me think that I’ll be able to live with the 4 min rule :). It’s interesting to speculate whether Narasaki would have done the problem had he “taken his time” with the old rules…
      I thought it was a super exciting competition especially in the Men’s, I really thought Narasaki had it in the bag before the last climb. Just shows you how much of a mental game it is!

      • The final in Hachioji was the best thing that could happen to the 4min flat rule. I’m still not convinced because I think sooner or later it will cause problems (when someone misses a gold medal because they matched 1 millisecond too late).

        Interesting thought about Narasaki. Maybe with the 4min+ he would have taken too long, tried to secure the move and fell. That happened to Watabe, he “walked” all the way up the volume but thought too much before committing to the jump.

        Everyone thought Narasaki had it in the bag. Especially after Mawem’s flash of M4. That boulder looked very flashable for Narasaki. In fact, I know of a climber who had to pay some beers because he bet that the last problem wouldn’t change the results :D

        Thanks for the comment Kai!

        Angel

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