The route setters didn’t expect that! | Sunday Sends

This Sunday we gonna go back to the World Cup of 2012 in Munich. There, Russian climber Olga Iakovleva outsmarted the setters and found a clever way to top a qualifying problem by skipping most of it and going straight to the top.


Comments

  1. The alternative beta looks obvious once you’re seen it doe; easy to think routesetters these days wouldn’t be so naive.
    Another nice case of alternative beta was (iirc) W4 in the 2014 Munich World Championship final. There was a running traverse, except that Michaela Tracy decided to drop down and do it as a sloper/heelhook traverse instead.

  2. AngelPalacio says:

    Yes, the title is a bit of an exaggeration. But it is true that she made it look easier than it was. That white hold on the right was pretty flat (intended as a foothold) and the crimps were really small.
    Yes, I remember Michaela going slow on that run and jump, good example.
    Also from Munich, but in 2015, another traverse and another climber deciding that the running thing wasn’t for her: https://youtu.be/RkxEqkY7nDs?t=21m42s

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