Toru Nakajima repeats Lucid Dreaming, V15 | 8C

Japanese crusher Toru Nakajima has done the fourth ascent of Paul Robinson’s Lucid Dreaming, a hard V15 located in Bishop, California.


Nakajima right after jumping from the pinch to the edge

“We arrived Bishop at 15th but rain kept us inside until yesterday. Rain stopped yesterday noon, I realized I can check holds and my condition on everything. we walked laughed load because of heavy snow this January. I cleaned up (the) holds, put mats, and practiced crux move as like last year. I realized I can do crux move far easier than last year.”
Nakajima on his Facebook page

Lucid Dreaming was opened by Paul Robinson in 2010. Almost a decade has passed and the problem has seen only 3 repetitions (by Daniel Woods, Alex Megos and now Nakajima) which goes to show how hard the line is (initially Robinson proposed the V16 grade, but later downgraded it to V15).

The problem revolves around two low-percentage moves, grabbing a tiny pinch and jumping from it to an edge. Those moves are very condition-dependant and very hard to stick in a row. It took Nakajima three trips to Bishop to send the line, which he adds to his jaw-dropping tick list (that includes The Story of Two Worlds, Paint it Black, The Big Island, The Ice Knife…).

Here’s Alex Megos doing the third ascent:

Speak Your Mind