Udo Neumann on the 2014 World Cup

Right after the award ceremony in Laval we spoke with Udo Neumann. The German coach shared his thoughts on why Jan Hojer and Akiyo Noguchi are the 2014 Overall Champions and talked about route setting, the performance of the German Team and the challenges the IFSC faces.

In case you don’t know… Udo Neumann is the creative mind behind the World Cup Reports. He’s also the author of books such as Performance Rock Climbing and The Art and Science of Bouldering. And, of course, since 2009 he’s the coach of the German Bouldering Team.

It’s always a pleasure to talk to him, few people on this planet know so much about bouldering as he does. Thanks a lot for the interview Udo!


  1. magicWoods says:

    Jan Hojer has done a really good season. It may be true that in some kind of long moves he has an advantage, but a climber like him whose height is almost 1.90 meters does have more disadvantages than advantages. First of all, his tendons are going to suffer more stress and secondly, but not less important, he is going to suffer in crimpy problems where feet need to be placed near the hands. As a matter of fact, there are few professional climbers as tall as him. So that I only can agree partially with Udo’s words.

    • No doubt that there are many problems in which his height is a disadvantage. And he weights much more than any of his direct competitors.

      I agree with Udo that the “modern” setting style works better for Jan since he’s used to train that kind of problems during the workshops that Udo organizes (http://youtu.be/WELN6ERxNBk).

      Thanks for the comment magicWoods!

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