Weekly Bouldering Digest – 1 April 2013

We bring you results from the Military Winter World Games, four 8C | V15, two mind-blowing flashes, and a ton of content from Chongqing’s Bouldering World Cup. Oh, and this week we’ll have our second Bouldering World Cup of the year while Canada crowns its Bouldering Champions.

Hydrangea sees its third ascent

Nagao on Hydrangea 8C | V15

Nagao on Hydrangea- Screenshot from the video of the ascent.

Remember that long roof problem that Daniel Woods repeated during his recent trip to Japan? It has been climbed by a guy called Nagao (Japanese engineer and weekend warrior) about whom I have no information whatsoever; all I know is he must have fingers of steel. Dai Koyamada opened the problem in 2005 and it is considered a hard 8C | V15. Here’s the footage of the ascent.

Traversi ticks off two 8C | V15 projects in Switzerland
Carlo Traversi is doing quite well in Switzerland. According to 8a.nu he has managed to do the first ascent of his own creation The Kingdom, which he considers to be 8C | V15 (“the 5 hardest moves I’ve ever linked together“).

Also, a few days ago, Traversi did the fifth ascent of Dave Graham’s The Story Of Two Worlds, considered by some as the standard for the 8C | V15 grade. He started the problem sitting and two moves lower than Dave Graham, he considers this position to be “the most obvious place to begin the boulder”.

The starting position in TSOTW has become an issue after Dai Koyamada’s first repetition of the problem, which at the time was considered invalid because he had started using different holds than the ones Graham used in the first ascent (watch this awesome video to find out more).

Hukkataival is back in Font
Finnish first ascensionists (his own words!) Nalle Hukkataival is in the midst of what can already be called a successful trip to Fontainebleau, France. According to his blog, along with some other hard problems, he has done the first repetition of Misti, an 8C | V15 traverse first climbed by Arnaud Ceintre. More information about the problem (along with pictures and a video) at Bleau.info

More guys on the 8B Flashers Club!
8a.nu reported this week two impressive flashes by Niccolò Ceria and James Webb.

In Västervik, Sweden, Ceria climbed The Hourglass sds 8B | V13 in his first attempt. The problem was put up by Stefan Rasmussen a few years ago. Check out this video of Andy Gullsten climbing it.

In Valle Bavona, Switzerland, Webb flashed Dave Graham’s Kings of Sonlerto, graded 8B+ | V14. I think this is the third flash ever of a 8B+ | V14 after Ondra with Gecko Assis and Woods with Etlinge. Footage of the first ascent of Kings Of Sonlerto can be found in Dosage Vol.4

Annecy 2013 results
The Military Winter World Games were held in Annecy, France, last week. In the bouldering podiums we can find very familiar names:

Annecy Bouldering Podiums

Annecy Bouldering Podiums. From the event’s Facebook page.

    1. Anna Stöhr (AUT) – Jakob Schubert (AUT)
    2. Evgeniya Malamid (RUS) – Kilian Fischhuber (AUT)
    3. Mina Markovic (SLO) – Klemen Becan (SLO)

More info at annecy2013.com

Chongqing media catch-up
The IFSC has uploaded to his YouTube channel the entire live stream they offered during the Chongqing Bouldering World Cup. If you don’t feel like watching 5+ hours of climbing comp you can watch just the highlights.

As usual, Udo Neumann (Udini), the German coach, has uploaded a video report which I highly recommend:

And, from the British team, Shauna Coxsey and Mina Leslie-Wujastyk have shared their thoughts on the event. If you speak French, Thomas Caleyron has also written about his participation.

Competitions coming up
This weekend we’ll have:

  • the second Bouldering World Cup of the year in Millau, France. April 5, 6. More info.
  • the Canadian Bouldering Championship in Edmonton, Alberta (with my personal favorite Tonde Katiyo setting!). April 6, 7. More info.

And a video!
In Varazze, Italy, Niccolò Ceria (member of the 8B Flashers Club, see above) repeated Gandalf Il Grigio 8B+ | V14 a few weeks ago. Here’s the footage.

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    1. […] year, during his European trip, he did a flash ascent of Dave Graham’s Kings of Sonlerto, orinally graded 8B+ | V14. He also put up new problems (La Rustica 8B+|V14), repeated test pieces […]

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