Weekly Bouldering Digest – 17 February 2013

This week is all about hard problems climbed on real rock. Big names climbing big grades all over the globe. We also have some competition results and, as always, a bunch of bouldering videos to get you psyched.

Third ascent of Meadowlark Lemon
Carlo Traversi has done the third ascent of Meadowlark Lemon 8C | V15 in Red Rocks, Nevada. The problem was first climbed by Paul Robinson and then repeated by Dave Graham. It goes up one the most beautiful boulders out there (in my humble opinion).

Carlo Traversi on Meadowlark Lemon

Carlo Traversi on Meadowlark Lemon. Picture from Carlo’s Facebook page.

Daniel Woods back in Japan
In Shiobara, Japan, Daniel Woods has repeated Dai Koyamada’s Hydrangea 8C | V15. Hydrangea is a long roof problem, sit start to Hydra 8B | V13. On his previous visit to Japan, Woods had climbed Hydra, Catharsis 8B+ | V14 and tried Hydrangea (without success). Catharsis is also known for being the only 8B+ | V14 ever climbed by a woman (Tomoko Ogawa in 2012, footage here). You can watch footage of Woods on those problems in this video released by The North Face Japan.

Daniel Woods climbing Hydrangea

Daniel Woods climbing Hydrangea. Picture from Daniel’s Facebook page.

During this last trip Woods also took part, along with some of the best boulderers in Asia, in The North Face Cup. He ended up winning the comp ahead of Rei Sugimoto and Tsukuru Hori.

Over at eddiegianelloniuncut.com you can find nice pictures of both the repetition of Hydragea and The North Face Cup.

Fourth 8C proposal in Spain
8a.nu reports that, in Spain, Rubén Díaz Torres has established a new 8C | V15 problem calling it Kemena. Read his description of the problem and reflections on the ascent over here (in Spanish). There are four 8C | V15 problems in Spain (two by Nacho Sánchez, one by Iban Larrion and this last one by Díaz) none of which has been repeated.

Paul Robinson in Hueco Tanks
Back in American Soil after months bouldering all over the world, Paul Robinson has spent some days in Hueco Tanks, Texas. Over there he has repeated a bunch of double-digits including the fourth ascent of Dave Graham’s Blood of a Young Wolf 8B+ | V14 (footage of Nalle Hukkataival doing the third ascent).

To finish the trip he entered and won the Hueco Rock Rodeo, a sort of comp-gathering-party bouldering event in which climbers have an entire day to send problems for which they get points (it doesn’t matter if they have climbed or tried the problems before, the only thing that counts it to send them on the competition day). Check out 27Crags recap of the event.

Three videos with hard stuff from both sides of the Atlantic

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    1. […] that long roof problem that Daniel Woods repeated during his recent trip to Japan? It has been climbed by a guy called Nagao (Japanese engineer and weekend warrior) about whom I […]

    2. […] Lemon video Earlier this year, Carlo Traversi did the third ascent of Meadowlark Lemon 8C | V15, one of the most beautiful boulder problems out there. Here’s the footage of the ascent along […]

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