Weekly Bouldering Digest – 19 March 2013

Let’s see… we have Chris Schulte’s euro trip, Dave Graham latest V15, some really hard repeats in Switzerland, Daniel Woods not repeating a V15 (for a change!) and much more…

Chris Schulte’s euro trip
After a visit to Switzerland (where he repeated The Dagger 8B+ | V14 and flashed Conquistadors 8A+ | V12), Chris Schulte has made a very succesful trip to Fontainebleau, France. He has repeated some of the classics (Karma 8A | V11, Elephunk 8B | V13), some new stuff (Hukkataival’s The Realist 8B+ | V14) and has climbed his hardest problem to this day: The Big Island 8C | V15. Apparently it took him about 30 sessions and he ended up using his own beta (without the double heel-hook that people usually use). Read more about it at Dead Point Magazine and Climbing.com.

Rok Klancnik’s bloomed in Chironico

Rok Klancnik on FDGTF

Rok Klancnik on FDGTF. Screenshot from his video of the ascent.

Rok Klancnik repeteated Dave Graham’s From Dirt Grows The Flowers 8C | V15 in Chironico, Switzerland. The slovenian did the original straigh-up top out which includes one of the most difficult mantles out there. Check out the video of the ascent and don’t miss this attempt from 3 months ago where he’s painfully close to send but ends up hitting the pad.

Dave Graham’s latest
Dave Graham has added yet another 8C | V15 to his list of First Ascents by finishing his latest project, The Bridge of Ashes, in Ekland (a bouldering area in Colorado). A few days later, Daniel Woods got the first repeat of this “blunt powerful prow“. At The Island they have some pictures of the problem.

Daniel Woods on his own words
If you are not following Daniel Woods on Facebook go like him right now. He now and then writes interesting posts on his trips and ascents. He also links to some content he writes for other websites. Lately he has been writing on his trip to Japan, the 2013 ABS Nationals and his attempts on Lucid Dreaming (how often do you read a trip report in which the climber talks about his failures?). The RV Project has a nice article about Woods’ trip to Bishop to try Lucid Dreaming.

Dreamtime by Fabian Buhl
8a.nu reports that German Fabi Buhl has repeated Fred Nicole’s legendary problem Dreamtime 8B+ | V14 in Creciano. Dreamtime was one of the first proposals of 8C | V15 difficuly, it was later downgraded to 8B+ | V14 but after a key hold broke some say it’s back to his original grade. Anyway, an awesome, really hard boulder problem. More on Buhl’s blog.

People sending 8B+ | v14
Let’s do a quick review of some hard problems (8B+ | V14) that have been repeated lately all over the planet:

  • In Bishop, California, Carlo Traversi has repeated Direct North.

Direct North V14 • Carlo Traversi • Bishop, CA

  • In Castillo de Bayuela, Spain, Alberto Rocasolano has done the second ascent of El Lado Oscuro de la Fuerza. Video of the FA by Nacho Sánchez.
  • In Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, Arkansas, Paul Robinson has climbed Loved by Few Hated by Many sit start. Here’s the video.
  • Nico Ceria has repeated Gandalf il Grigio in Varazze, Italy.

And videos, tons of them!

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