Weekly Bouldering Digest – 24 March 2013

The IFSC Competition season has begun with some of the best boulderers on Earth competing in Chongqing’s World Cup. Meanwhile, on real rock, some other strong guys (Robinson, Nakajima, Webb…) have been establishing and repeating really hard boulder problems. Oh, and Chris Sharma has red pointed the hardest route on the planet.

2013 Chongqing Bouldering World Cup

Momoka Oda during the Chongqing Bouldering World Cup

Momoka Oda during the Chongqing Bouldering World Cup

Anna Stöhr (AUT) and the current World Champion Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (RUS) have won the first IFSC Bouldering World Cup held in Chongqing, China. More details in our review of the event.

Robinson’s new chapter
In the Ozark Mountains of Arkansas, Paul Robinson has finished his project The New Chapter, a sit start to Daniel Woods’ Child’s play (8B | V13). This line climbs an horizontal roof and Robinson considers it to be 8C | V15. More at 27crags.

Asagimadara 8C | V15 by Nakajima
Established by Tokio Muroi and located in Mizugaki, Japan, Asagimadara was initially given the grade of 6-Dan in the Japanese Dankyu system (which translates to 8C+ | V16). Toru Nakajima has pulled off the first repetition suggesting a downgrade to 8C | V15. It is a serius contender for the hardest problem in Japan. At Nakajima’s Facebook page there are a couple of pictures.

Webb gets off the wagon
James Webb has done the third ascent of what at this point can be considered a classic line, Off The Wagon (FA Nalle Hukkataival), in Valle Bavona, Switzerland. The problem, as powerful as they come, involves a extreme campus-rose move and is graded 8B+ | V14. Check out the first repetition by Jan Hojer (min 2:28).

Also in Switzerland, few days ago, Webb repeated another 8B+ | V14 first climbed by Hukktaival, Ninja Skills, in Sobrino. Here’s a video with the FA.

Sharma repeats his own creation
Chris Sharma has repeated La Dura Dura. I know, it is not bouldering. But hey, it is the hardest sport climbing line on the planet. Sharma is the second human being to climb 9b+ (at least the second one to climb a line graded as such). And he’s a rock climbing legend. So that’s it. He bolted it, projected it, showed it to Ondra (who made the FA in February) and now he has done the first repetition. More at climbing.com

A couple of videos

General Disarray 8B | V13

General Disarray 8B | V13. Screenshot from this video.

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    1. […] graded 8B+ | V14. He also put up new problems (La Rustica 8B+|V14), repeated test pieces like Ninja Skills or Off the wagon (both 8B+ | […]

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