Weekly Bouldering Digest – 3 March 2013

We have two weeks worth of news. Get ready for a lengthy post!

Japan and the USA crowned their bouldering champions, the brits selected their team for the IFSC Bouldering World Cup, a bunch of girls did pretty well on hard boulders, Jan Hojer went on a sending rampage and so did Toru Nakajima. Also, the 2012 CWIF has just ended. So much to deal with… let’s get started!

National Championships in Japan and the USA
Japan and the US have “new” bouldering champions. Actually the only new champion is Sachi Amma, 2013 Japanese Bouldering Champion, the rest have just renewed their titles. Akiyo Noguchi has won her eighth Japanese Bouldering Championship while Daniel Woods and Alex Puccio have won the ABS Nationals for an amazing seventh time (more at ABSNationals.org).

Here are the podiums:

ABS Nationals:

1- Daniel Woods – Alex Puccio

2- Ian Dory – Andrea Szekely

3- Vasya Vorotnikov – Isabelle Faus

Japanese Bouldering Championship

1- Sachi Amma – Akiyo Noguchi

2- Atsushi Shimizu – Momoka Oda

3- Tsukuru Hori – Yuka Kobayashi

Best of British

A climber during the Best of British Competition

A climber during the Best of British Competition. Screenshot from the highlights video.

Meanwhile the Brits were selecting their national team among the cream of the crop of British bouldering stars. Shauna Coxey had her ticked secured so she didn’t even have to put her shoes on (she just had to climb amazingly well throughout 2012 to end up among in the IFSC Top 10). Read all about it and watch a highlights video on this article from UKClimbing. Here are the full results.

Hard female ascents
Let’s catch up with some important repeats by some of the best female boulderers:

  • Austrian rockstar Katharina Saurwein has been sending hard problems in Swizterland. In Brione she climbed 3 8A | V11 (Frogger, Fake Pamplemousse and Real Pamplemousse) and in Chironico she flashed Tricky (also 8A | V11). I’m guessing 8A | V11 has to be the hardest grade ever flashed by a woman (I know that at least Ashima Shiraishi has flashed this grade, do yo know of anyone else?).
  • Also in Swizterland, Juliane Wurm has been sending several 8A | V11 (according to her new 8a.nu account).
  • And to finish up with german-speaking-female-hard-ascents-in-Swizterland section of our post: Check out this UKClimbing report on four german girls sending 8A | V11 in the granite of Ticino.
  • French climber Melissa Le Neve have been climbing in Hueco Tanks, Texas, where she has repeated three 8A+ | V12 (Runble in the jungle, Diaphanous sea and Barefoot on Sacred Ground).
  • Mina Leslie-Wujastyk has repeated Peak District’s famous highball Careless Torque 8A | V11. Check out Ned Feehally sending it. And here’s a great clip of Slovenian star Klemen Becan trying it:

Careless Torque Trailer from Outcrop Films on Vimeo.

Hojer and Toru Nakajima sendfest

Jan Hojer has done something historical, on the verge of histerical during his last trip to Switzerland. Over three days he has:

  • Repeated Dreamtime 8B+ | V14 (8C | V15 in Hojer’s opinion)
  • Climbed 11 (yes, eleven) 8A | V11 or harder in a day (it was supposed to be a rest day but something went wrong ;-) – Read all about it at UKClimbing.
  • Repeated The Dagger 8B+ (8B | V13 in Hojer’s opinion)

On a similar note, Toru Nakajima has an amazing list of hard repeats in Fontainebleau. According to 8a.nu he has climbed:

  • The Big Island 8C | V15
  • Gecko assis and The Traphouse (both 8B+ | V14)
  • Sideways Daze, Satan I Helvet and Elephunk (all 8B | V13)
  • Partage and Fata Morgana (both 8A+ | V12)

Nakajima also joined the 8B Flashers Club by sending The Traphouse Short on his first attempt.

2013 CWIF Podium
The Climbing Works International Festival has just ended in Sheffield. Was a cool competition to warm up before the IFSC Bouldering World Cup begins at the end of the month.
Here’s the podium:

1- Jakob Schubert – Shauna Coxsey
2- David Barrans – Leah Crane
3- James Garden – Alex Puccio

Quick Notes
A couple of newsworthy ascents:

  • Guillaume Glairon Mondet keeps at it in Font. Among his last repeats is Paul Robinson’s The Traphouse 8B+ | V14. More on his blog.
  • In Cresciano, Jorg Verhoeven has joined the 8B Flashers Club by sending Fred Nicole’s La Proue 8B | V13 on his first try.

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