Bouldering technique: Gaston

French climber Manu Cornu grabs the top hold as a gaston during the semifinals in Munich 2016

French climber Manu Cornu grabs the top hold as a gaston during the semifinals in Munich 2016

In climbing, a gaston is a kind of grip which involves pushing a hold instead of pulling. To grab a hold as a gaston a climber would turn his palm away from him, with the thumb pointing down and the elbow out, and generate friction against the hold by pressing outward toward the elbow. You can visualize it by imagining how you would pull open an elevator door.

A climber doing a double gaston

 A climber doing a double gaston to hold on to a vertical crack above shoulder level. Picture by Mariachily

This technique is named after the French climber  Gaston Rébuffat. A gaston is sometimes called a “shoulder move”.

Here’s a video with 5 examples of gaston grips:

Trackbacks

  1. […] see that big sloper, then after that there is a lighter green one and you need to heel hook and do a gaston so you’re splayed on the wall like Spiderman with your palm facing outwards. That’s the […]

  2. […] see that big sloper, then after that there is a lighter green one and you need to heel hook and do a gaston so you’re splayed on the wall like Spiderman with your palm facing outwards. That’s the only […]

  3. […] Pivot here.) The Pivot has 27 distinct training grips:11 types of pockets, 10 edges/slopers, and a gaston grip. A new Pivot training app will also be dropping next week for both iPhone and […]

  4. […] Pivot here.) The Pivot has 27 distinct training grips: 11 types of pockets, 10 edges/slopers, and a gaston grip. A new Pivot training app will also be dropping next week for both iPhone and […]

  5. […] Pivot here.) The Pivot has 27 distinct training grips:11 types of pockets, 10 edges/slopers, and a gaston grip. A new Pivot training app will also be dropping next week for both iPhone and […]

  6. […] Pivot here.) The Pivot has 27 distinct training grips: 11 types of pockets, 10 edges/slopers, and a gaston grip. A new Pivot training app will also be dropping next week for both iPhone and […]

  7. […] Pivot here.) The Pivot has 27 distinct training grips: 11 types of pockets, 10 edges/slopers, and a gaston grip. A new Pivot training app will also be dropping next week for both iPhone and […]

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