Zan Sudar repeats Bügeleisen 8B+ | V14

Slovenian climber Zan Lovenjak Sudar has climbed his second 8B+ | V14 by repeating Klem Loskot’s Bügeleisen in the Austrian area of Maltatal. The 19-year-old pulled off a quick ascent that required just 4 sessions. That same day he also climbed Wrestling with an Alligator 8B | V13.

I had the best climbing day in my life.

Bügeleisen has been a dream climb for Sudar, who checked the problem several times when he was in Maltatal. ““I always took some time and hiked to Bugeleisen to touch the starting holds and admire the angle of the overhang, I watched Klem do it countless times on video and always dreamt of doing the climb once in my life… it was always my dream but never wanted to try it, I felt so much respect and even fear towards that problem…“.

Finally last year he decided to try the moves, but they felt way too hard. This winter, feeling in much better shape, he tried the problem again and was happily surprised. “This winter I felt pretty strong and light so I decided to put some effort into actually doing the climb […]I was really surprised how quickly I did the moves and link them up“,

After 3 sessions he found himself on top of the boulder.

Sudar has climbed in several international competitions, mostly in youth events. Now that he’s too old for the youth team, he considers focusing more on rock climbing.

Two months ago he climbed Beginning of the End, an 8B+ | V14 first climbed by Urh Čehovin and considered the hardest boulder in Slovenia.

Now his projects include Jernej Kruder’s Hide and Sick (8B+ | V14) and, of course, the sit start to Bügeleisen (8C | V15). “Everyone is hyping me up for the sit start, it seems logical… I want to try it, the moves, in the beginning, aren’t hard, it just adds up to the upper part,“.

Pictures courtesy of Štefan Wraber and Plezalni Klub Stena.

Zan Sudar is sponsored by Five Ten Slovenia, you can follow him on Instagram: @slsudar

By the way, according to Christof Rauch, Bügeleisen has also been climbed recently by Florian Schmalzl (who also repeated Emotional Landscapes 8C | V15).

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